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Background
In 1991, Congress passed the Silvio O. Conte National Fish and Wildlife Refuge The act authorized the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (Service) to establish a national fish and wildlife refuge to protect the diversity and abundance of native species within the Connecticut River watershed. The Nulhegan (pronounced Nul-HEE-gan) Basin in northeastern Vermont was identified as a high priority Special Focus Areas within the watershed. The Basin was considered to possess high biological values including the presence of rare species, wetlands, and contiguous migratory bird habitat.
In 1997, Champion International Corporation announced that it would sell approximately 132,000 acres of land in Essex County, Vermont. A non-profit conservation organization, The Conservation Fund, successfully bid on the property and subsequently passed it along to agencies and a timber company. Because the Nulhegan Basin was identified as a Special Focus Area for the Refuge, the Service was invited to purchase 26,000-acres within the Basin. The Nulhegan Basin Division (Division) of the Refuge was established when the Service purchased this area on July 21, 1999. The Vermont Agency of Natural Resources acquired about 22,000 acres adjacent to the Basin to form the West Mountain Wildlife Management Area. Essex Timber Company purchased the remaining 84,000 acres that surrounds the federal and state properties, subject to protective easements that restrict future development and encourage sound and sustainable forestry practices. The combination of ownerships and easements on the 132,000 acres will provide long-term conservation of important wetland and upland wildlife habitats as well as preserve traditional uses of the land.
Habitats
The Nulhegan Basin was formed when a pool of magma formed within existing metamorphic rock. The magma cooled into a relatively soft granitic rock called quartz monzonite. Once erosion wore away the cap of metamorphic rock, the softer monzonite eroded more rapidly than the surrounding metamorphic rock. This resulted in a relatively flat circular interior area, roughly 10 miles in diameter, surrounded by hills. Sand and gravel were later deposited in the bottom of the Basin by melting glaciers.
Located just a few miles south of the Canadian border, the Nulhegan Basin’s vegetation most closely resembles that of the northern Appalachian Mountains but also contains elements of the boreal forest that occurs farther to the north. The Basin is predominately a forested habitat interspersed with streams and various types of wetlands such as shrubby peatlands, bogs, and beaver flowages.
Northern hardwood forest, dominated by sugar and red maple, beech, and yellow and paper birch, cloak the mountains of the Basin rim and the larger hills of the Basin interior. Quaking and bigtooth aspen also are common. Notably absent in the Basin, are any oaks – another indicator of the more northern character of the forest. The Basin bottom is dominated by spruce-fir forest. Red and black spruce and balsam fir are the principal trees in these forests. Tamarack, northern white cedar, black ash, and speckled alder also occur commonly in the Basin, but are restricted to the wetland areas.
There are several rare plants of Vermont found in the Division including bog sedge, shining rose, drooping bluegrass, ligonberry , and the State-endangered auricled twayblade. Most of these plants are associated with bogs and other peatlands common in the Division. There are currently no plant species known to occur on the Division that are federally listed as endangered or threatened.
The Nulhegan Basin is the primary watershed of the Nulhegan River, an important tributary of the Connecticut River. The main course of the Nulhegan River runs adjacent to the south boundary of the Division. Three of the four major tributaries of the Nulhegan River -- the North, Yellow, and Black Branches, run south through the Division. A network of smaller streams feed these branches. The 68-acre Lewis Pond is located in the northwest portion of the Division. Elevations on the Division range from approximately 1,000 feet to 2,800 feet above sea level.
Wildlife
The Nulhegan Basin is well known as a remote landscape with an abundance of wildlife. A wide array of bird species including black-backed woodpecker, black-and-white warbler, black-throated blue warbler, black-throated green warbler, Blackburnian warbler, blackpoll warbler, Canada warbler, boreal chickadee, black-capped chickade and many other migratory songbirds can be seen and heard in the forests of the Division. American woodcock, ruffed grouse, waterfowl, and various birds of prey also can be commonly observed. A variety of mammals including moose, black bear, white-tailed deer, snowshoe hare, red squirrel, beaver, fisher, and coyote commonly occur on the Division. Reptiles observed on the Division include the garter snake, redbelly snake, ringneck snake, common snapping turtle, painted turtle, and the State-significant wood turtle. A variety of amphibians can be seen or heard around wetlands including spring peeper, mink frog, green frog, wood frog, pickerel frog, gray tree frog, and bullfrog and several salamander species. Brook trout, bullhead, chain pickerel, chub, dace, and common shiners inhabit the Nulhegan River and its tributaries. Numerous insect and other invertebrate species also are found on the Division.
More than 150 vertebrate species have been documented on the Division. Although no federally-listed threatened or endangered species have been encountered, three birds that occur on the Division (spruce grouse, common loon, and osprey) were recently “de-listed” from the state endangered species list by the State of Vermont. Vermont’s only viable breeding population of spruce grouse is mainly located on the Division.
Wildlife-Dependent Recreational Opportunities
Hunting, fishing, wildlife observation and photography, environmental education, and interpretation are priority public uses on national wildlife refuges as defined by Executive Order 12996 (March 25, 1996) and the National Wildlife Refuge System Administration Act of 1966, as amended by the National Wildlife Refuge System Improvement Act of 1997 (Public Law 105-57). Visitors have an opportunity to experience each of these at the Division.
Hunting
The Division currently provides opportunities for hunting according to state regulations. A Division specific hunting and fishing plan will be developed at a future time. The Northeast Kingdom is recognized as the premier region for harvestable wildlife in the state. This region of Vermont is particularly noteworthy for: large white-tailed deer, the highest moose densities, 45% of the state black bear harvest, and some of the best ruffed grouse and American woodcock hunting. Snowshoe hare and coyote also support abundant hunting opportunities in this remote setting. With an abundance of game, and fewer roads and development than other areas, the Northeast Kingdom offers some of the best hunting opportunities in Vermont. Hunters bring a good deal of trade to local businesses during the season.
Fishing
The Division currently provides opportunities for fishing according to state regulations. The Northeast Kindgom is well known as Vermont's top region for trout and land-locked salmon. The North Branch of the Nulhegan River and the Moose River of the former Champion lands are particularly recognized for brook trout. Of the 295 lakes and ponds statewide, 80 are located in the Northeast Kingdom; 13 of these are within the former Champion lands (3 of these are rated as "wilderness like") and one is located on the Division. Many streams, rivers, and ponds are stocked with brook trout. Aquatic studies performed on the Division and West Mountain Wildlife Management Area in 2000 indicate that a wild, self-sustaining brook trout population may exist in some of these waters as well. Lewis Pond and the North and Black Branches on the Division also offer opportunities for brook trout fishing.
Wildlife Observation and Photography
Visitors may view and photograph wildlife on the Division in a variety of settings such as while driving on the forty miles of gravel roads, walking along wooded pathways, following stream courses, or while hiking in the deep woods. Many areas provide scenic vistas of the Nulhegan Basin and the surrounding mountains. Visitors can access the Division to pursue wildlife-dependent recreation by vehicle, snowmobile (in winter), or on foot (or cross country skis or snowshoes in winter) to enjoy wildlife observation and photography throughout the year.
Photographers will not be allowed to use disruptive techniques that will disturb wildlife (e.g., baiting, playback tapes, or electronic calls). This restriction may not necessarily apply to approved management activities or research.
Environmental Education and Interpretation
Environmental education takes place when schools, colleges and universities, or environmental education organizations visit the Division as part of a course of instruction. Programs are being developed for on-site and off-site environmental education and outreach. The Mollie Beattie Bog Interpretive Boardwalk provides visitors with information on bog habitat and wildlife. An interpretive auto tour route is being planned that will highlight the Nulhegen Basin natural and cultural history and may include additional interpretive trails and boardwalks.
Other Activities
The public is welcome to visit the Division year-round. Trapping is allowed on the Division according to State regulations. A Special Use Permit is needed and requests for trapping permits must be made in writing to the Division Office. Hiking is allowed anywhere on the Division, but fires and overnight camping are not allowed. A hiking trail that connects the Division with adjacent conserved lands is being planned. The Northern Forest Canoe Trail, which will run from Old Forge, New York to Fort Kent, Maine will pass through the Division via the Nulhegan River. All dogs must be accompanied and under control, and not pose a threat or nuisance to Division wildlife or visitors. Bicycling, All Terrain Vehicles, and horse back riding are also not allowed. Research and any other activities not listed here may require the issuance of a Special Use Permit.
Directions
Take I-91 North to Exit 23 in Vermont. The exit will read Island Pond, Lyndon State College, Lyndonville, and Lake Willoughby. Turn right at the end of the exit ramp onto Rt. 5. Follow Rt. 5 through Lyndonville and Lyndon. After Lyndon, you will veer to the right onto Rt. 114 (the turn will be next to a Modular home manufacturer and opposite Lyn-Burke Motel). Follow Rt. 114 through E. Burke to Island Pond approximately 21 miles. You will come to a “T” intersection outside of Island Pond. Turn right at the “T” and follow Rt. 114/105 into Island Pond approx. 2 miles. At the intersection, turn right onto Rt. 105 East. Don’t take the immediate right; that will take you into a parking lot. The intersection is a bit confusing. If you accidentally turn into the parking lot, just follow it around and turn right onto Rt. 105 in front of the Post office.
Follow Rt. 105 East approximately 10.5 miles. You will see the big brown “Silvio O. Conte National Fish and Wildlife Division Nulhegan Basin Division” sign. We will be on the left in a modular building with 3-door garage and a small barn. You can’t miss all the construction activity for the new Headquarters/Visitor Contact Station!
Hours and Fees
Division office hours are generally 8:00 AM- 5 PM, Monday through Friday, except Federal holidays. Because we have a small staff, we recommend calling to be certain we will be in the office when you arrive, quite often we are either in the field or on the road. The Division is open 24 hours a day for public use and there is no entrance fee.
Facilities and Trails
The following is the current status of facilities and trails in the Nulhegan Basin.
Visitor Contact Station
Visitors can call or visit the Division office at 5360 Vermont Route 105 in Brunswick, Vermont, Monday through Friday, 8:00 am to 4:30 pm. Visitors can ask the staff questions and pick up various hand-outs, general leaflets, fact sheets, flyers, road maps, brochures, state hunting and fishing regulations, and other information about opportunities in the Nulhegan Basin area. Staff can answer questions about wildlife ecology and management, public use regulations, respond to problems, and provide contacts for more information. If the staff is unavailable by phone, the public may leave a voice message (802-962-5240). Mailing address is U.S. Fish and wildlife Service P.O. Box 427, Island Pond, VT 05846.
Construction began on our new Headquarters/Visitor Contact Station, next to the current office, in June 2005. At the future Headquarters/Visitor Contact Station, a scenic overlook will allow visitors to have a bird’s-eye view of much of the Nulhegan Basin and provide opportunities to photograph the landscape. Informational brochures on specific wildlife (e.g., a bird checklist) are planned to enhance the visitors’ experience. When the new facility is in operation, our current office building will be used for quarters for seasonal staff, interns, graduate students, and researchers.
Because firsthand observation of species in their habitats leaves a strong impression on visitors seeking wildlife, the guestbook/logbook at the future visitor contact station will enable them to share their observations with others who read it. Visitors also will be encouraged to share their observations of wildlife directly with Division staff and other visitors. These tools will be used to help monitor and evaluate wildlife observation/photography opportunities.
Roads
The Division contains approximately forty miles of gravel roads, which are open to the public for driving (with motor vehicle licensed for highway use)except during winter and mud season. During the winter, the roads are not plowed, but beginning the 3 rd Monday in December a thirty five mile network of groomed trails is available for snowmobile access as part of the larger Statewide Snowmobile Trail System. During the spring, the gates are locked for the mud season to prevent damage to the roads and stuck vehicles! The roads are usually reopened by Memorial Day. Call 1-877-811-5222 (toll free) for the current status of the roads.
Speed limit for motor vehicles on Division roads is 25 mph; maximum speed for snowmobiles is 35 mph. Drivers should be aware that the roads are also used by trucks hauling logs and should be careful to stay on their side of the road. Bicycling, horseback riding, and ATV riding are prohibited on the Division.
Mollie Beattie Bog Accessible Boardwalk
Mollie Beattie Bog (the Bog) is a destination for visitors because of its exceptional wildlife viewing, photography, and interpretive opportunities. The self-guided, newly renovated, 200-foot, fully accessible boardwalk and trail includes signs illustrating bog formation, the interesting rare plants that inhabit the black spruce bog area, and the legacy of the late Mollie Beattie.
The Bog has been recognized as a state significant site. It is among the most significant black spruce woodland bogs in Vermont. It contains one of the largest populations of the rare bog sedge (Carex exilis) found in the state. The state endangered spruce grouse (Dendragapus canadensis) and rare gray jay (Perisoreus canadensis) can be also seen in the Bog. It is home to the rare Arctic jutta butterfly (Oeneis jutta). Wildflower photographers come to the Bog in search of the sundew (Drosera spp.), yellow, white or pink lady slippers (Cypripedium spp.) pitcher plants (Sarracenia purpurea ) and other northern bog plant species. Many other species including moose,bear, and snowshoe hare can be seen and photographed. It is also designated stop on the Northern Section of the Connecticut River Birding Trail.
Hiking
A hiking trail that will connect part of the Division to other conserved lands is being planned in conjunction with several partner organizations. Visitors can hike on numerous old skid trails and woods roads that are periodically bush-hogged to function as public use foot trail.
Kiosks
Three informational kiosks are located on the Division, one at each entrance. Seasonal information at kiosks will alert visitors to good wildlife viewing spots, highlight regulations, and alert visitors to safety precautions, provide educational information, and dispenser for Service brochures.
Volunteer Opportunities
Volunteers are always welcome and needed at the Division. Please contact the office for more details on how you can become involved in important operational, biological and visitor service activities on the Division and when volunteers are most needed.
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